It is defined based on the gloss level.

Flat paint : ≤ 10 unit on gloss meter at 60⁰ angle
Silk/eggshell paint : 20 -30 unit on gloss meter at 60⁰ angle
Semi gloss paint : 50 -70 unit on gloss meter at 60⁰ angle
Gloss paint : ≥ 75 unit on gloss meter at 60⁰ angle.

They provide an even, softer and uniform look to the surface.
They don’t highlight surface imperfections like higher sheen paints. Hence, these paints usually do not require as much surface preparation (like patching, texturing or sanding) prior to painting.
They are much less likely to show 'lap marks,' so are generally easier to apply and touch up than higher sheen paints. (When one painted section dries before the next section is painted, the two sections won’t flow together into a uniform film, resulting in a 'lap mark.')
They don’t need to be sanded or de-glossed before repainting, unlike higher sheen paints.

They are less stain and scuff resistant than higher sheen paints. Should not be used on surfaces that will be handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.
They are less moisture resistant than higher sheen finishes. Not the best choice for areas that are exposed to high humidity levels, like bathrooms, or on surfaces that will be washed frequently.

They have better stain resistance, so resist dirt pick up and stay cleaner longer.
They have better scuff and wear resistance, are good for high traffic areas and on surfaces that are handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.
They have better moisture resistance, which makes them ideal for surfaces and areas that are frequently exposed to high humidity levels.

They tend to highlight any surface imperfections.
They are harder to touch up than lower sheen paints, because the higher sheen tends to highlight the slightly raised surface of the film where the touch up was done.
They usually need to be sanded, de-glossed or primed prior to repainting, to ensure good adhesion of the new paint.

All paints, varnishes, and solvents contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Exposure to VOCs can trigger asthma attacks, respiratory problems, eye irritation, nausea, or dizziness. Because of these health concerns, we have introduced low or no VOC paint alternatives. Also, VOCs have a negative effect on global warming.

No. PU Wood coating is a two pack Polyurethane topcoat based on a premium quality saturated polyester resin which is much tougher and harder than normal PU.

Wood will have flaws like scratches and dents. It needs sanding before painting to prevent the flaws being highlighted.

Start sanding with sandpaper that has grains of about 80 or 100 grit followed by 150 or 180 grit.
Always sand along the direction of the grain.

No. Always before application, apply a small bit of stain to an innocuous part of wood such as the underside to check if the shade and depth is as desired. If it is ok, then proceed with staining.

It needs to be sanded.

Normally two coats. However, depending on the colour depth more coats may be required

Sand the first coat by using 220 grit sand paper and subsequent coats. In case of multiple coats sand the sealer with 320 or 400 grit sand paper.

No. Sanding will remove the nice shine and finish of the top coat.

No. Red lead is highly poisonous, outdated and banned in most of the countries. Use a zinc phosphate primer.

No. Stoving enamel need to be stored at a higher temperature, normally above 140 degree for proper curin. It willl not perform if air dried.

No. Only recommended thinners should be used, otherwise it will spoil the paint and performance of the coating.

Good surface preparation is required before painting. For scaffolding, at least the grease should be removed prior to painting.

The pre-treated MDF or ply wood will have some pre-treatment chemicals in it which will leach out through the subsequent paint coating which is known as bleeding. To prevent it, solvent based sealants should be used.

Maximum 1:1 Paint to thinner by volume.

No. You can apply paint if the humidity is less than 85% (except ethyl silicates) and surface temperature is above 3°C of dew point. Application at temperature below 5°C is not recommended. For ethyl silicates, minimum humidity is 50% and max is 95%.

No. You have to use the recommended thinner.

There will be excessive spray fog and orange peeling in case of less dilution and sagging in case of excess dilution of paints by thinner during application.

No. Surface should be free from dust, rust, loose flakes, oil, grease and all other contaminants. For better performance, we recommend blast clean the surface to Sa 2.5 BS7079: Part A1: 1989. Manually prepared surface should be to a minimum standard of St 3 BS 7079: Part A1: 1989.

Hold the gun at right angle to the surface and move parallel to surface. Keep the spray gun at about 1 feet distance from the substrate. Use the appropriate spray nozzle and set the pressure based on the paint type. Apply stripe coat by brush or roller on difficult areas like edges, corners, holes, welded areas before spray application.

No. You can’t use paint after the pot life is over. It will affect the final performance. It is also not recommended to dilute the paint and usage after it’s shelf-life.

The end of pot life is signaled by exothermicity and double the initial viscosity/thickness of the product to the final stage. You can expand the pot life by mixing and keeping the paint at the lowest temperature possible. At 10°C rise in temperature halves the pot life and 10°C drop in temperature doubles it.

Check the square meter area. Refer the technical data sheet for theoretical spreading rate (M2/ Ltr.).
Theoretical Paint Consumption (Ltr.) = Total Area (sq. m/Theoretical spread rate (sq.m/ltr). Also include the lost factors like paint wastage due to handling, spillage, surface roughness, application technique, actual film thickness and painter’s skill.